Tonight was Turducken night.
For those philistines who don't know, a turducken is a boneless chicken, stuffed inside a boneless duck, stuffed inside a boneless turkey. There's usually some stuffing between each bird.
I've been hearing about these things on Food Network and wanted to give one a try.
Obviously, putting one of these together requires some pretty tricky deboning work. I've attempted this procedure before. I was attempting to make a nifty recipe I found in one of my Jacques Pepin books. The recipe requires three deboned chickens. However, for that recipe, and for turducken, you need to leave the meat completely intact. This involves cutting between the bones and the meat and then gently pulling the bones out. This is pretty easy when removing the breast and back bones; removing the thighs and the leg bones is a massive pain in the ass. When I attempted the Jacques Pepin recipe, I bought 3 practice chickens. The results were so horrifying that I just threw all three into a stock pot and vowed that I would never again bring such torture to poultry.
Knife work is not really my specialty.
Given my past experience, there was absolutely no way I was going to try to make a turducken from scratch. Fortunately Farker bboy steered me in the right direction. Specifically, he steered me to Poche's. Not only does Poche's sell fully assembled turduckens, they have some of the best andouille sausage I've ever tasted.
Poche's alleges that their turduckens feed "15-20 non-Cajuns". I had 7, but those 7 were very determined.
The turducken came out marvelous. I attribute this partly to Poche's expert assembly and partly to my mad roasting skillz. Poche's does the hard part. But their roasting instructions leave a little bit to be desired. The whole of the instructions are "roast at 375 degrees for 4 hours." That's just not going to cut it, especially when I've got an audience that expects great things from me.
I always use a thermometer to ensure that my roasted meats are perfect. But therein lies the problem: where the hell do you stick a thermometer in a turducken? I tried various places, but it was almost impossible to figure out if it was going into stuffing or into meat. Eventually, I just stuck the thermometer where the neck would be and shoved it in horizontally. I roasted the turducken until the thermometer read 175. It took a little less than 3.5 hours. So, if I had left it in for the full 4 hours, the turkey part (the outside layer) would probably have been very dry.
As it turns out, carving a turducken is easy. Just cut out cross section slices. If people are coming to your house to eat turducken, then they probably want the full turducken experience. So I made sure that everybody got some turkey, some duck, some chicken, and some of Poche's awesome cajun stuffing.
I wanted to use some of my Poche's andouille sausage in a side dish, so I made andouille spoonbread. This was an even bigger hit than the turducken. Everybody wanted more of it. Even the picky eaters were clamoring for more.
One unexpected thing was that I got some of the best drippings I've ever gotten from roasted poultry. They were beautiful: dark, fragrant, and full of flavor. Plus, there was a definite "cajunness" to the flavor of the drippings because some juices from the cajun stuffing made their way into the bottom of the pan. My friend Michele told me that there was no way we were not making gravy with those drippings, so I whisked up a roux and made some really awesome gravy in which we dunked many slices of French bread.
All in all, it was a great evening with a lot of great food. I followed the meal up with a Cusano 18 and all was well in the world. There were tons of leftovers, but I really don't mind. I'm looking forward to turducken sandwiches tomorrow!